■ Self-introduction
Hi everyone! I'm Yulia from Moscow, Russia, located in the European part of the country. This is my second article for this website. What I dedicate my weekends to is traveling and diving into diverse local cultural events. I've realized that there’s nothing more engaging than immersing myself in the yet unfamiliar beauty of the world. Today, I'd like to share with you one of the most captivating experiences I've had in Japan - the Tsugaru Stove Train in Aomori Prefecture!
■ Tsugaru Stove Train: Quick Facts
・ Operating period: December 1st to March 31st
・ Route: From Tsugaru Goshogawara Station to Tsugaru Nakasato Station
・ Frequency: 3 round trips daily (*varies in December)
The Tsugaru Stove Train is a unique seasonal train operated by the Tsugaru Railway in Aomori. Running about 45 minutes each way between Tsugaru Goshogawara and Tsugaru Nakasato stations, it’s available from December to March each year.
Interesting tidbit: Since its establishment in 1930, Tsugaru Railway has remained a completely private company, having never been transferred or managed by Japan's National Railway. And even more: It’s also the northernmost private railway in Japan!
■ My Encounter with the Tsugaru Stove Train
I discovered the Tsugaru Stove Train while exploring Northern Japan with the Tohoku Japan Rail Pass. Aomori is famous for stunning nature, the traditional “Neputa” festival around Tanabata (early July), and the most delicious apples in Japan. But when I learned about this retro, limited-time winter train experience, I couldn't resist trying it out. And believe me - it was even more special than I expected!
※ Japan Rail Tohoku Pass homepage
■ The Charms of the Tsugaru Stove Train Journey
①Retro Charm of the Tsugaru Railway Stations
The first charming thing you'll notice is the delightful retro atmosphere of the stations themselves. At the starting station, Tsugaru Goshogawara, you'll find a quaint ticket booth and a waiting room warmed by a stove, evoking the cozy countryside vibes of old Japan. Snowplows like the Russell Car and vintage diesel locomotives like DD350 often wait patiently on the snow-covered platforms. Stepping onto the platform feels like stepping back 80 years in time!
The station shops offer fun souvenirs like goods featuring "Tsutecchi," Tsugaru Railway’s cute mascot, commemorative tickets with beautiful scenery printed on them, spicy cookies made to look like the coal burning in the train’s stoves, and apple jam crafted by local students. I bought the spicy "Burning Coal Cookies" - they were hot for real! Plus, purchasing these souvenirs supports the preservation of the Stove Train and the Tsugaru Railway Line. It’s a lovely cooperation between the local community and the railway.
②Unique Experiences Inside the Stove Train
The second highlight is the unique onboard experience. Traditional Japanese “daruma”-shaped stoves warm the old post-war train carriages, perfect for thawing out on chilly winter days.
Attendants dressed in traditional Tsugaru Railway “happi” light coats sell local apple soda, snacks, and dried squid called "surume," which they'll even toast for you over the stove - a unique treat you can’t find anywhere else! The freshly grilled surume’s rich flavor which spreads through your mouth with every bite perfectly complements the snowy landscapes outside. Add some friendly conversations with fellow passengers and tasty local drinks to this blissful moment, and you get a perfect travel experience.
On my ride, I met a cheerful gentleman from Akita, a lovely couple visiting from Tokyo, and many other most different people. By the end of the journey, we had all become friends. Once you experience it, you'll want to come back!
※ Surume：Dried squid with its intestines removed.
■ Fun Seasonal Events on Tsugaru Railway
Tsugaru Railway offers many other delightful events beyond the Stove Train. Let me introduce the three events I deemed the most fun from the ones I found:
・ Wind Chime Train (July 1-August 31)
・ Bell Cricket Train (September 1-mid-October)
・ Limited-time Edition Bento Boxes (Stove Bento, Sakura Bento, Dazai Bento, Inaho Bento)
In summer, all the trains on the line transform into "Wind Chime Trains" decorated with beautiful wind chimes and local haiku poetry. Come autumn, the station staff display bell crickets aboard the "Bell Cricket Train." Special seasonal edition bento boxes are available during these events.
※ Reservations are required for the bento boxes. For more details, please visit the official Tsugaru Railway website
Tsugaru Railway also offers unique initiatives like owning a 1-meter rail section for 5,000 yen or naming station rights for 300,000-1.5 million yen! (At the time of writing this article, applications for naming stations are not accepted). Such creative stunts are possible thanks to the strong local community ties, offering a charm unlike anything you'd find in big cities that place importance on safety and efficiency. However, as a resident of a modern big city, I find these initiatives especially important and endearing.
※ The Tsugaru Railway Rail Owner Program is a way to support the railway by symbolically "owning" a section of rail without transferring any legal ownership or usage rights.
※ You can participate for 5,000 yen per meter.
・ Applications for rail ownership are currently being accepted.
・ There is no limit to how many units one person can apply for.
※ If you're interested in the Tsugaru Railway Rail Owner Program, please visit the official website.
■ Important points!
― December schedule: On December 1st and on weekdays, there’s 2 round trips daily. On weekends, there’s 3 round trips daily.
・ Even if December 1st falls on a weekend, there will still be only 2 round trips.
・ From December 30th to March 31st, there will be 3 round trips daily.
― Boarding location: Tsugaru Goshogawara Station is pretty far from Aomori Station.
・ You can consider taking the Gono Line from Hirosaki Station because it lets you go straight to Tsugaru Goshogawara without changing trains.
・ It’s better to depart in advance and plan your route sufficiently as the waiting time between trains may be long.
― Stove Train Ticket： In addition to a regular ticket, a special Stove Train ticket is required.
・ Sadly, you cannot use the Tsugaru Free Pass or the Tohoku Japan Rail Pass to board the Stove Train.
・ Payment is cash only.
■ The conductor’s and my wish!
That day, I was carrying a bag featuring an illustration from the famous Japanese anime “Higurashi: When They Cry”. When the conductor saw it, he smiled and said, “That anime is set in Shirakawa-go, a World Heritage Site in Shirakawa Village, Ōno District, Gifu Prefecture, right? I wish someone would make an anime themed around the Tsugaru Railway too!” I laughed along with him, but deep down, I genuinely hoped his wish would come true. If the Tsugaru Railway were to become the setting for a popular anime, I believe anime fans from around the world would discover just how charming it is.
■ Conclusion
My Tsugaru Stove Train Journey let me experience Japanese culture of the older times and connect with wonderful people on a deeper level. For me, it became a truly precious and heartwarming memory. It’s interesting to note that while the Russian Trans-Siberian Railway also uses coal stoves, the experience differs greatly. Stove usage is restricted to train staff only, so you cannot cook anything on it. When it comes to snowy landscapes, the snow in big cities like my hometown Moscow quickly turns dirty due to pollution, so the scenery isn’t that nice. Thus, for a truly magical winter train experience, Tsugaru Railway is unbeatable.
By the way, I don’t have space to talk about it in length here, but Tsugaru Railway Line also opens access to fascinating spots like the “Shayokan” museum at Kanagi Station, the childhood home of the classic Japanese novelist Osamu Dazai; a beautiful park with 1,500 sakura cherry trees at Ashino Park Station; and impressive giant Tachineputa floats at Tsugaru Goshogawara Station. If you're keen on experiencing authentic, old-fashioned Japanese culture, try the Tsugaru Stove Train! It's unforgettable. Thank you for reading!
