■Introduction
The great 14th-century traveler, Ibn Battuta, once said:
"Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller."
Hello! My name is Shafi, and I first came to Japan as an international student in 2019. I’m currently pursuing my PhD at the University of Tokyo, researching microplastic pollution in Japanese farmlands. But before moving to Tokyo, I lived in Oita Prefecture, where I experienced a unique blend of Japan’s rich natural beauty and a vibrant international community.
Today, I want to share with you a special experience I had at Sato no Tabi Resort Lodge Kiyokawa, a hidden gem I discovered in Bungoono City, Oita Prefecture.
■What Kind of Place is Bungoono City?
Oita is well known as Japan’s Onsen Prefecture, home to Beppu’s famous hot springs with diverse mineral properties and Yufuin’s picturesque townscapes that attract visitors from all over the world.
But Oita has more to offer than just hot springs. Bungoono City, a small mountain town in the southern part of Oita with a population of around 30,000, is one of those lesser-known treasures. Here, you’ll find Harajiri no Taki, a breathtaking waterfall often called the "Niagara of the East" and recognized as one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls. The area is also surrounded by mountains and rivers that change beautifully with the seasons, offering a perfect escape into nature.
■A Special Experience at Sato no Tabi Resort Lodge Kiyokawa
Nestled near the source of the Oku Takegawa River, Lodge Kiyokawa offers a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation. From outdoor activities to delicious local specialties, it’s an experience that lets you immerse yourself in nature.
Let me take you on a journey through my unforgettable trip there—one that still warms my heart.
■Day 1: The Journey Begins
It was mid-March, and I set out on a final trip with eight friends who had been my companions throughout my university years. This was a bittersweet journey—we all knew deep down that after this, we would each go our separate ways. So, we were determined to make it unforgettable.
The mountains still held onto the last remnants of winter, but when I looked closely, I could see tiny blossoms beginning to bloom on the plum and cherry trees—almost as if nature itself was celebrating the beginning of our new chapter.
We boarded the JR Hōchi Main Line from Oita Station, heading towards Bungō-Kiyokawa Station. As the train moved, the sky seemed to stretch wider, and soon, we were surrounded by lush mountains and dense forests. It felt like we were leaving behind the rush of everyday life and stepping into a peaceful sanctuary.
Welcome to Lodge Kiyokawa
Upon arrival, we were greeted warmly with a welcome drink. But what truly took my breath away was the wooden cabin we would be staying in—a cozy, beautifully designed lodge with a river-view terrace, just steps away from the crystal-clear Oku Takegawa River.
Here’s a tip:If you're traveling by train, Lodge Kiyokawa offers a free pick-up service from the nearest station (just make a reservation in advance). If you're driving, there’s a free parking lot available as well.
A Challenge in Nature: The Sauna Experience
The first adventure we embarked on was Lodge Kiyokawa’s signature "Sauna Challenge."
The Rules of the Sauna Challenge:
• Change into swimwear and immerse yourself in the ice-cold Oku Takegawa River for 10 seconds.
• Immediately after, rush into the wood-fired sauna to warm up.
• Repeat the process, increasing your time in the river by 10 seconds each round.
• The last person standing wins a free sauna pass usable at seven different saunas in Bungoono City!
The winner? My best friend from Uzbekistan! The repeated contrast between the burning heat of the sauna and the freezing river water left us all feeling unbelievably refreshed—body and soul.
A Night of BBQ, Music, and Laughter
After the sauna, it was BBQ time! We had pre-ordered a BBQ set, but to accommodate our friend who eats only Halal food, we also brought additional ingredients. (By the way, bringing your own food is allowed at Lodge Kiyokawa!)
As we ate, one of my friends pulled out a guitar and started strumming. Soon, four other guests joined us, and before we knew it, we were all playing games together.
Music Relay Game Rules:
• Divide into teams.
• One team sings a song, and the next team must start a new song using the last syllable of the previous song’s lyrics.
• If a team can’t think of a song, they must buy drinks for the opposing team!
With a variety of drinks available at the lodge, the game quickly became intense!
Truth or Dare: A Risky Bet
• Everyone sits in a circle and spins a bottle.
• Whoever the bottle points to must choose "Truth" or "Dare."
• If they pick "Dare," they must complete the challenge set by the group.
At first, the dares were lighthearted, but as the night progressed, they escalated. My ultimate dare? To wade into the freezing Oku Takegawa River at midnight and retrieve a stone from the riverbed.
And so, at midnight in mid-March, I found myself braving the icy water. That moment—half suffering, half laughing—will stay with me forever.
■Day 2: A Day of Adventure
Despite sleeping at 3 AM, we all woke up at 8 AM—thanks to the chorus of birds chirping around our cabin. Normally, after such an exhausting day, we would have wanted to sleep in, but the sound of nature was too beautiful to ignore.
Satoyama Hiking & Digital Detox
That morning, we decided to ditch our phones and go on a satoyama (rural landscape) hike, embracing a digital detox. Our route:
• A 12-kilometer hike from JR Asaji Station to JR Taketa Station
• Visiting famous spots in Bungoono along the way
• Ending the journey at Taketa Onsen "Hanasuizuki" for a well-deserved soak
But this hike turned out to be much tougher than we expected...
At first, we were enthusiastically walking with maps and snacks in hand. But soon, as we let go of our convenient smartphones, we faced an unexpected challenge: we got lost in the forest. Initially, we remained optimistic, thinking we'd easily find our way, but as time passed, anxiety started creeping in. To make matters worse, I was the one who suggested the digital detox, so I could feel my friends' disappointed gazes on me.
Fortunately, we encountered a group of monks in training along the way and asked for help. They kindly guided us all the way to our final destination. It’s hard to put into words the sense of relief we felt at that moment, but the emotions we felt upon meeting the monks in the middle of the forest, probably not many people ever experienced that in their lifetime (no regrets…).
Chaos on the Pack Raft!
After finishing our hike, we rented four small pack rafts for 2,000 yen per hour and headed toward the peaceful river. At first, we were overwhelmed by the towering cliffs on both sides and the breathtaking beauty of nature. We quietly rowed our boats, listening to the birds chirping.
But of course, there was no way that eight young people would just row peacefully for the entire time. Before long, we decided to hold a boat race, with the losing team in charge of making dinner that night. As the competition heated up, chaos ensued—three out of the four boats capsized. Luckily, everyone was wearing life jackets, so there were no serious incidents. However, we were left shivering in the cold water as we swam back to shore.
A Self-Sufficient Dinner Time
Since my team lost the boat race, we were assigned to prepare dinner. We borrowed handcrafted bamboo fishing rods from the locals at Lodge Kiyokawa and tried our luck at river fishing. Incredibly, we managed to catch nine fish, which, along with some vegetables, became our evening meal.
Meanwhile, the winning team spent their time building a fire and preparing a campfire while we cooked.
A Night of Bonfires and Tears
We gathered around the fire, roasting marshmallows, singing songs, and joking with one another... The smiles illuminated by the flickering flames seemed to float in the darkness.
But as time passed, the laughter slowly faded away, and the conversations changed. We were all international students from different countries. Our upbringings, languages, and dreams were all different. Yet, on this night, we were united around a single flame, transcending our differences.
"Why did you come to Japan?"
"What do you wish for in the future?"
Someone would ask, and someone would answer. The anxieties of leaving our home countries, the loneliness we felt while chasing our dreams, the moments when we nearly gave up—these words rose into the night sky with the sparks from the fire.
Before long, a heavy silence descended. No one spoke. But in that silence, there was more than words could express. Eyes illuminated by the firelight met each other, silently understanding each other's hearts.
Suddenly, a warm sensation ran down my cheek, and I realized it was a tear. Looking around, I saw the same in everyone. Without wiping our tears, we just kept our eyes on the fire, holding hands. Someone quietly murmured,
“I am sure we'll never have a time like this again."
Those words pierced my heart. Someday, we would all return to our respective countries and walk different paths. But the warmth of this night, this time, and the fire’s glow would continue to burn forever in our hearts. Above us, the full moon shone quietly, and only the sound of the river and the rustling of the trees filled the air.
That night, we spoke not with words, but with our hearts. And we spent the most peaceful and deeply resonating time of our lives.
■Day 3: A Surprise on Our Last Day
The next morning, while we were having breakfast, we received an unexpected surprise. The staff at Lodge Kiyokawa had secretly taken photos of our adventures over the past three days and presented them to us as a gift.
Since we had given up our phones and spent the entire trip immersed in activities from morning to night, these surprise photos became a priceless treasure to us.
Afterward, we took a shuttle bus from Lodge Kiyokawa to the nearest station, and I returned home to Beppu. To be honest, I hardly remember the journey back. However, I clearly recall the moment I closed the door to my room—tears flowed uncontrollably.
The friendships I made during this trip became one of my most valuable treasures. In the future, whenever I face difficulties, I am certain that this experience will give me strength.
I will never forget this journey.
■Final Thoughts
I have shared my special experience at the accommodation "Sato no Tabi Resort Lodge Kiyokawa" in Bungoono City, Oita Prefecture. What did you think? Would you like to visit and try these experiences yourself?
The lodge has English-speaking staff available, as well as free shuttle services from the nearest station and various exciting activities. If you’re interested, I highly recommend visiting!
This has been a long read, but thank you for staying with me until the end!
※Lodge Kiyokawa regularly holds events such as firefly viewing, the Holi Festival, and international food festivals. For more details, please check out their official website:
Lodge Kiyokawa Official Website